Saturday 31 August 2013

My Favourite History Drink... And Why??



The Drink:
It popularised the use of the straw and is said to have been the first drink to have been shaken with ice. The Professor, Jerry Thomas, described it as ‘not requiring much skill to compound’. It has been described as the most important mixed drink in American history. A drink documented by greats such as Charles Dickens, Edgar Allan Poe, Herman Melville, Nathaniel Hawthorne and Mark Twain. Sherry meets Berries. I am talking, of course, of the Sherry Cobbler.

The Why:
All of the above should suffice for my reasoning, but let me elaborate.

Rich in History: A historical gem, documented for the first time in 1809, according to our knowledge, in Washington Irving’s Knickerbocker’s History of New York, it preceded classics like the Mint Julep (1824), the Sazerac (1859), the Martinez (1862), the Manhattan (1870) and the Ramos Gin Fizz (1880s). So firmly established in its history and popularity, Jerry Thomas documents its recipe in his 1862 edition of his Bartender’s Guide, the go-to-guide for popular drinks of the 1800 century.



Global Domination: This quintessential American Cocktail rose to popularity in the USA in the early 1830’s and soon spread across the globe to the UK (1847 - "Oxford Night Caps") and later Canada(1848 - “Canada and the Canadians“). William Terrington, author of Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks called it “an American invention that has become a universal favourite”



Popular still Today: Rather a drinks ‘classification’, than a ‘cocktail’, we still find it on the beverage list of Night Jar in London, amongst other world famous bars and is readily available in the most watering holes in the world with a knowledgeable bartender. It’s uncharacteristically lower alcohol content compared to the drinks of its age, make it easy to drink, even to today’s sweet toothed consumer.




Friday 12 April 2013

What is all the RUMbullion about??



RUM is currently the talk of the town amongst bartenders in SA, so in honour of my fellow craftsmen that competed in the Bacardi Legacia Competition, as well as all the gents that tried their hand at mixing the lesser known Pink Pigeon Mauritian Rum, here is a quick rundown on Rum production from sugar cane molasses...

Just a quick congratulations to my fellow Port Elizabethan, Nick Koumbarakis, for being crowned the Bacardi Legacia 2013 Champion! And Gareth Cliff says PE is the armpit of South Africa? Psshhhh! Not in the bar fraternity! Keep the flag flying high brother! You deserve it!

As I have just returned from the Medine Ditillery in Mauritius, I will be concentrating on Industrial Production Technique, as opposed the less popular and more expensive Agricultural Production Technique.

I think it is appropriate to start right at the beginning, as the origins of rum can only be directly contributed to the wild spread popularity and need of its raw product sugar cane. Sugar cane is produced on the Equatorial belt, where the weather allows for perfect cultivation. It originated in the Islands of Indonesia, known today as the East Indies. From there it was transported for trade by China to Asia and the Arabians followed suit by transporting and trading in the Middle East and North Africa. Soon Europe joined the trading and Spain and Portugal started to cultivate and export sugar cane. In 1943, on his second trip to the Americas, Christopher Columbus, transported sugar cane from the Canary Islands across the Atlantic Ocean and it was soon spread thereafter to the Caribbean, Haiti and Brazil. The insatiable demand for sugar in Europe also gave rise to the development of sugar cane plantations and mills in England, Holland, France and Spain.

As mentioned the raw product of Rum is molasses. The by-product of sugar production, it is a rich, dark syrup usually 30-40% in sugar content. The higher the sugar content in molasses, the larger volume of rum can be produced from the raw product. Nowadays because of the hugely industrial processes used to refine sugar and the need for a high yield because of profitability, the milling process yields a molasses with lower sugar content and therefore less Rum can be produced per ml of molasses.


Exactly where does the molasses come from?  The guys from Ministry of Rum explain it better than I can below:

“The clarified juice is concentrated by removing the water in vacuum pans which boil the juice at lower temperatures and protect the sugar from carmelization as the juice becomes a rich brown syrup.
As the last portion of water is removed under a carefully controlled vacuum, seed grain (pulverized sugar) is fed into the vacuum pan and thick dark crystals grow. These crystals are then separated in centrifuges, large perforated baskets that yield golden raw sugar.
Raw sugar - approximately 96-98% sucrose - is covered by a thin film of molasses, a dark thick syrup containing sugar, water, plant material, minerals, and other non-sugars. The composition of this molasses is dependent on the efficiency of the sugar manufacturing equipment and the source of the fresh sugar cane.
To remove the molasses layer on raw sugar, the sugar is dissolved and then separation is accomplished in centrifuges and carbon filters to yield a water-white sugar syrup and thick dark molasses. From the water-white sugar syrup sugar crystals are formed in vacuum pans, centrifuged and dried before being separated according to size. Since the pure sugar crystals are naturally colourless, no bleaching or whitening is necessary.”

Where to from here? Well as in any alcohol production, yeast and water is added to the raw product in order for fermentation to take place. This fermentation process is heavily regulated usually takes a minimum of 24 hours for white rum and up to 3 weeks for dark rum. The yeast is generally produced and grown onsite in a laboratory. This insures consistency of hundreds of years in the yeast strand. The fermentation process yields a beer/wine that is made up of alcohol and congeners. These congeners are an organic by-product of fermentation and add unique flavour and taste to the end product.



The next process, namely distillation, helps to strip away the water in the beer/wine, as well as ensures a higher concentrate of alcohol and congeners. Usually this process from continuous distillation produces rum of 80 – 95% ABV. The distillation technique used is often dependent on the style of rum to be produced – continuous distillation produces single distillates used for white rums and double pot still distillation produces a fuller bodied and rich rum often used for gold or dark rums.



Maturation takes place making use of either once used American white oak barrels or used Cognac barrels. The aging process creates a mellower product – it purifies the spirit through removing unwanted smells, it enhances colours, flavours and aromas and it creates new flavour components and ads complexity to the final product. It is important to note that not all rums gain their colour from the aging process, as in the case of some rums, molasses syrup or caramel is added after distillation for flavour and colour.



Jargon:
Anejo Blanco Rum – unaged or aged less than 3 years
Golden Rum – aged a minimum of 3 years
Dark Rum – aged a minimum of 5 years
Anejo Rum – aged a minimum of 7 years

Lastly, we have the blending process. Blending creates the different ranges of rums we have today. This is where science meets passion... Different barrels and ages are blended to create unique taste profiles that are consistent enough to bottle, labelled and sold.



To my fellow bartenders: let’s make a RUMBULLION about rum. Speak it, Drink it, Live it.

Me, My Drinks and I

Thursday 11 April 2013

Mauritian Rum Brand Trip - Here's to the Pink Pigeon!



Wow! It has been way too long!! Sorry for the long break... I went and got married since my last blog – not as the result of a drunken bartender stupor  in a Vegas chapel, but the real deal – but also spent a week in Mauritius and NOT on my honeymoon! Hahahaha! I had the great pleasure of being selected by Pink Pigeon Rum as one of the finalists from South Africa to compete in a little Mauritian Cocktail  Competition, as well as a brand trip visiting the Medine Destillery where the rum is made.


The drink that saw me win the South African leg of this competition, was the Pigeon Royale – a twist on a Kir Royale, but made with Rum and MCC. One of my better creations, it is dry with just a hint of sweetness from my homemade Cherry Blueberry  and Sage 15 Minute Jam. The recipe for this drink can be found in one of my earlier blogs. Worth a try. As you can see below - I think the judges liked this one, as much as I did! :P



A huge thanks to Luigi Barzini from Pink Pigeon for an informative, yet relaxing brand trip to be remembered! If you are a bartender, you will know that brand trips are very easily so jampacked, that we hardly actually get time to relax or sober up for that matter! This trip was the exact opposite!  It was incredible to get to spend time with my fellow competitors. Guys like the infamous Gareth Evans, Leon Dallaway and Johan Balauw.




Le Suffren Hotel hosted the finals during which the public voted and the Mauritian team took home the glory! Well, kept the glory home, is probably the better term! Team UK produced a great effort coming to the comp with a gutsy Tiki drink! Go boys! 


Johan Blaauw from the One and Only Hotel Bar in Cape Town and I produced, in my opinion, an amazing drink, called the Tribute Punch. A wonderful balance of Pink Pigeon Rum, Tamarin and Strawberry Tea Syrup, fresh Lime Juice,  Dehydrated Campari, Allesverloren Port and a Cape Town produced Coconut, Berry and Vanilla tea! We tried to keep as much of our drink Safa style, but brought in some local flavour by the implementation of the Tamarin Syrup!




Until the next trip... Cheers to Pink Pigeon Rum!

Wednesday 27 February 2013

The Bitter Truth - Make Bitters

The Bitter Truth

Not too long ago, I competed in the South African leg of the Angostura Global Cocktail Challenge in Johannesburg at Liquid Chefs in Rosebank and grew a new found passion for Bitters! Robert Heugel and Kevin Floyd, from Drinkdogma.com, refer to Bitters, as the “salt and pepper of cocktails” The mixology comp was won by a very talented, young Johannesburg mixologist called Dom Walsh! Enjoy your time in Trinidad, Dom! Oh how I loath you! Kidding! Super jealous! Hahahaha, but you can’t win them all, so moving right along!

After the comp I was reminded that another good friend of mine Asaf Yechiel(mixologist from The Orphanage, Cape Town), who represented South Africa with me in Mexico at the Tahona Society Cocktail Competition, had made his own bitters for his entry cocktail for this competition and I was inspired to do the same! So I started to do some research into the subject. Before I get to the nitty gritty, I would just like to share my competition entries from the Angostura’s Global Cocktail Challenge – maybe give these a spin at home or in your local bar! They didn’t place too badly!

1.       Babash
Glass: Jam Jar
Method: Flame Caramelize Sugar and Glaze Rosemary, Build and Stir
Ingredients:
37.5ml Bombay Saphire Gin
12.5ml Martini Rosso
Lemon and Vanilla Sugar
Rosemary
Homemade Gingerbeer(still water, brewer’s yeast, raisons, sugar, fresh ginger)
Angostura Bitters(use an atomizer to flame Angostura Bitters)
Garnish: Rosemary, Lemon Zest and Bitter Spray

2.       Trini Thyme
Glass: Crystal Tulip
Method: Muddle, Shake and Fine Strain
Ingredients:
50ml Bacardi Oak Heart
12.5ml Buttlers Van Der Hum
1 shot glass Black berries
1 stick Thyme
Angostura Bitters
Homemade Pomegranate and grapefruit Soda
Garnish: Thyme, Grapefruit Skin and Bitters Spray
 
Getting back to the purpose of this blog: Making your own Bitters at home! So I looked at a  number of sites and blogs on the net on the production of bitters and I found that for me the most informative was http://drinkdogma.com/how-to-make-your-own-bitters-for-cocktails/
Other helpful sites and blogs were:

For the most part, making your own bitters isn’t very cost effective and the infusion process takes quite a while – a month to be exact! But can you really put a price on creating your uniquely flavoured bitters?? I think not!
So as it stands, there are 4 components to any Bitters:
·         Spirit
·         Herb
·         Spice
·         Fruit 

The Spirit/Liquor – the selected spirit needs to be of a high proof – preferably a pure grain spirit with little to no flavour. The reason being, is that the higher the proof of the spirit, the more flavours are released during the infusion process. 

Infusion is the process of extracting chemical compounds or flavors from plant material in a solvent such as water, oil or alcohol, by allowing the material to remain suspended in the solvent over time (a process often called steeping). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infusion
 
I struggled to get my hands on a high proof spirit in port Elizabeth, so I used Stroh Rum. Before I initiated the infusion process however, I filtered the rum a number of times, in order for it to lose some of it’s ‘rum’ flavour. I have heard of people also making use of a Rye Whiskey – it is of a lower proof, but adds wonderful spicy flavours.


The Herb. So many bitters and even more Herbal componants. Here I had to take into account what I could get my hands on in South Africa. Limited resources usually spark initiative and creativity. Most bitter-makers usually insist on using Quassia Wood, Fennel Seed, Fringe Tree Bark, Barberry Root Bark and Burdock Root.

The Spice. This is a bit of an easier ingredient to get your hands on and I made use of cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, aniseed, coriander seed, cloves, green pepper corn, flash-dried thyme, cumin seed, ginger flake, allspice berry and juniper berry. You can use just about any spice you can think of to infuse, as you can blend many different combinations together to create many different bitter flavours.


The last component is fruit. This is where the bitters get’s its bitterness and flavour from. I separately infused citrus skin – orange, lemon and grapefruit, as well apple skin. Other ingredients that can be infused are cocoa, hibiscus, rhubarb, fresh cherry etc.


I placed each individual ingredient in a separate jar with 50ml of Stroh Rum and sealed it for infusion! It is now week 1 and the flavours are drawing out beautifully. To be continued...